Have you ever stepped into a tailoring shop and felt overwhelmed by terms like “notch lapel,” “vent,” or “bespoke”? You’re not alone. Tailoring has its own unique vocabulary—but once you learn the language, shopping for or designing a suit becomes a whole new experience.
At Fits on Time, we believe our clients should not only look sharp but also feel confident in the choices they make. So, here’s a quick crash course to help you speak the language of tailoring like a true gentleman (or lady!).
1. Bespoke vs. Made-to-Measure vs. Ready-to-Wear
Let’s start with the basics:
- Bespoke: A suit made entirely from scratch, tailored to your exact measurements, style preferences, and fabric choice. Think of it as your suit’s DNA—it’s 100% yours.
- Made-to-Measure (MTM): Based on standard sizes but adjusted to your measurements. It’s personalized but not as detailed as bespoke.
- Ready-to-Wear (RTW): Pre-made suits in standard sizes. Convenient, but they rarely offer that perfect “Fits on Time” feel.
At Fits on Time, we specialize in bespoke and made-to-measure suits—so your outfit fits just right, every time.
2. Lapels: The Collar’s Statement
The lapel is the folded flap on the front of a suit jacket. There are three main types:
- Notch Lapel: A classic choice with a small cut-out where the collar meets the lapel. Perfect for business suits.
- Peak Lapel: Has sharp edges pointing upward. Great for formal occasions or power dressing.
- Shawl Lapel: A smooth, rounded lapel often seen on tuxedos or dinner jackets.
Choose your lapel based on the occasion, personality, and your body type.
3. Jacket Vents: Move with Ease
Vents are the slits at the back of your jacket:
- Single Vent: One slit at the back—popular in American-style suits.
- Double/Vented: Two slits for better movement and a more European silhouette.
- No Vent: Found in slim-cut tuxedos or more fashion-forward suits.
If you’re attending a Kenyan wedding or moving around a lot (like on a Nairobi workday), double vents offer flexibility and style.
4. Suit Cuts: Know Your Style
- Slim Fit: Sharp, modern, and closer to the body. Great for younger clients or fashion-forward events.
- Regular Fit: Traditional and comfortable. Perfect for all-day wear or formal meetings.
- Athletic Fit: For guys with broad shoulders and a narrow waist—cuts in at the right places to enhance your physique.
5. Trousers Talk: Breaks, Pleats, and Cuffs
- Break: This refers to how much your trousers rest on your shoes. A slight break is modern; no break looks very sleek.
- Pleats: Folds at the waistline. Flat-front trousers are trendier, while pleated ones offer extra comfort.
- Cuffs (Turn-ups): The bottom of the trousers is folded up. Stylish and slightly retro—perfect with loafers.
6. Fabric Terms: Know What You’re Wearing
Understanding fabric helps you make smart choices depending on Kenya’s weather:
- Wool: Versatile and breathable. Ideal for most Kenyan seasons.
- Linen: Lightweight and perfect for hot weather—especially in places like Mombasa or Kisumu.
- Tweed: Heavier and textured—better for cooler highland areas like Limuru or Nyeri.
- Blends: Combine different fibers for comfort and durability.
7. Common Tailoring Terms to Know
|
Term |
Meaning |
|
Canvas |
A layer inside the jacket that gives it structure. Can be half or full. |
|
Surgeon’s Cuffs |
Working buttonholes on the sleeve—a hallmark of high-quality tailoring. |
|
Inseam |
The length from the crotch to the bottom of the trousers. |
|
Quarter Lining |
A lightweight suit lining that’s breathable—great for hot climates. |
|
Break |
The crease or fold at the bottom of the trousers when they hit your shoes. |
Why It Matters
When you know the language of tailoring, you’re not just buying a suit—you’re curating your look, your image, and your personal brand. Whether you’re closing deals in Nairobi’s CBD, attending a wedding in Naivasha, or stepping into Sunday brunch in Westlands, your suit should be a seamless expression of you.
Ready to Talk Suits Like a Pro?
Come experience expert craftsmanship, personalized consultations, and unmatched service at Fits on Time. Let’s create something that fits perfectly—and speaks volumes.
